#4977222
JustinDustin wrote: January 18th, 2023, 5:38 am This is fantastic work gpstar! The more I tinker with my pack the more I'm realizing that the keepalive is just a band-aid to the real changes I'd like to make. Replacing the stock controllers is the natural evolution of that. One item that really has me irked is that you can't keep the pack running without the wand's rumble feature active all the time. Yes, the pack can turn off the rumble motor but only when in a "powered down" state. I'd prefer to have switches or options to let me turn on the rumble only for certain actions (controlled by the software) or at least work in a switch to turn it on/off at will for both the pack and the wand. If you can work in some kind of option for that in your grand plans that would be amazing.
hmm ok noted.

Meanwhile more progress today. Started working on the firing stream and implementing more switches. Testing with a second speaker + a small amp that fits in the wand body. I am not sure if I will keep it or not, but it makes the wand sound like it has some real power and a kick behind it.
#4977248
Electrical novice here.

My attempts with battery eliminators have failed. I don't think the connections were strong enough as the battery facings were slightly smaller than a real battery.

I think I want the option to use USB or batteries to power the pack as options.

Would my best bet be to solder a raw USB male onto the 12V pin?

I figured soldering it onto the 5V might produce more voltage accidentally if I accidentally power with both sources. And I can't see where there's any risk in having 5V from a USB come in on the 12V pin. I'd think it would just cap out at 5V -- and take up a slot but I'm not using that slot for anything else anyway and if I ever want to attach a full 12V power supply then I'd just need to desolder and then solder on the new connection.

I'm also not entirely sure all USB cables actually cap out at 5V though since phones fast charge somehow, right?
#4977252
TobinsGuide wrote: January 18th, 2023, 1:35 pm Electrical novice here.

My attempts with battery eliminators have failed. I don't think the connections were strong enough as the battery facings were slightly smaller than a real battery.

I think I want the option to use USB or batteries to power the pack as options.

Would my best bet be to solder a raw USB male onto the 12V pin?

I figured soldering it onto the 5V might produce more voltage accidentally if I accidentally power with both sources. And I can't see where there's any risk in having 5V from a USB come in on the 12V pin. I'd think it would just cap out at 5V -- and take up a slot but I'm not using that slot for anything else anyway and if I ever want to attach a full 12V power supply then I'd just need to desolder and then solder on the new connection.

I'm also not entirely sure all USB cables actually cap out at 5V though since phones fast charge somehow, right?
I’m not sure what you are trying to do and with what but do not feed 12V to the Haslab microcontroller. You want to feed it less than 6V.
#4977269
gpstar wrote: January 17th, 2023, 10:12 am Early stages, but it is coming along. The sound effects are temporary 2021 until proper ones can be found or created for the wand. I am going to implement 1984 wand sounds when the pack is in 1984 mode, and then 2021 wand sounds when in 2021 mode.

A little demo of some polyphonic sounds mixing together (note the beep when the vent light is turned on).
I don’t know if you’ve seen/heard Burkit’s Phoebe pack video, but he has some really great sounds that he said came from a German fan group.

I think I tracked down the group, at least.

https://fb.watch/i8esgjnb8J/?mibextid=v7YzmG

https://youtu.be/zT-xi413-wA
#4977292
gpstar wrote: January 18th, 2023, 2:05 pm
TobinsGuide wrote: January 18th, 2023, 1:35 pm Electrical novice here.

My attempts with battery eliminators have failed. I don't think the connections were strong enough as the battery facings were slightly smaller than a real battery.

I think I want the option to use USB or batteries to power the pack as options.

Would my best bet be to solder a raw USB male onto the 12V pin?

I figured soldering it onto the 5V might produce more voltage accidentally if I accidentally power with both sources. And I can't see where there's any risk in having 5V from a USB come in on the 12V pin. I'd think it would just cap out at 5V -- and take up a slot but I'm not using that slot for anything else anyway and if I ever want to attach a full 12V power supply then I'd just need to desolder and then solder on the new connection.

I'm also not entirely sure all USB cables actually cap out at 5V though since phones fast charge somehow, right?
I’m not sure what you are trying to do and with what but do not feed 12V to the Haslab microcontroller. You want to feed it less than 6V.
I just watched The Proton Pack Is Not A Toy's disassembly video (waiting to tear into my pack until I have a need to) and he had the battery pack connected to the microcontroller with a yellow connector. I guess I misread and thought you needed to solder a power supply cable on to either a 5v or a 12v pin. Looks like all I need is a USB to 2 pin connector like you'd use for a computer case fan to switch from battery to phone power bank adapter.

I realize it's a bit different process than someone coming in with a Talentcell. As near as I can tell, the big problem I'll face is that most power banks shut off without a minimum amount of current (and might not automatically power up when there's a draw) but I've worked two solutions. The first is to use the always-on Voltaic or Talentcell USB power. Voltaic makes smaller banks than Talentcell, for solar applications. The other is to get a USB C to 2 pin adapter since most battery banks with shut-off feature actually don't have a minimum current shut-off on their USB C output.

I didn't catch that there's a connector for the power supply from your breakdown. You're very knowledgeable and I'm just trying to follow along. I'm definitely the measure-ten-times and cut-once type so if I'm still not getting it, I'll probably be a couple of weeks into research before I even take the pack apart because I want to do everything I need to do for awhile in one disassembly and it may be months before I get back in there.
gpstar liked this
#4977296
Absolutely curious about this one - is the speaker in addition to the existing one or a replacement? What size is the new speaker? Did the amp and new speaker fit inside the wand, and, how are you getting audio (splicing existing speaker wires?) and power to the amp?

Thank you so much for all your hard work and sharing!
gpstar wrote: January 18th, 2023, 10:16 am
Meanwhile more progress today. Started working on the firing stream and implementing more switches. Testing with a second speaker + a small amp that fits in the wand body. I am not sure if I will keep it or not, but it makes the wand sound like it has some real power and a kick behind it.
#4977297
DevGameDev wrote: January 18th, 2023, 4:33 pmhttps://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/ ... &range=F51

Thiiiink this might be them.

EDIT: There were two sets! And some great GB2 versions as well, so I've just uploaded the links to my Spreadsheet tracker for easy access to all of them.
Thanks for the links, unfortunately the wand sounds are not isolated and still have the proton pack noise in the background.
#4977298
This post may contain an affiliate link that helps support GBFans.com when you make a purchase at no additional cost to you.

AGiantSlor wrote: January 19th, 2023, 12:28 am Absolutely curious about this one - is the speaker in addition to the existing one or a replacement? What size is the new speaker? Did the amp and new speaker fit inside the wand, and, how are you getting audio (splicing existing speaker wires?) and power to the amp?

Thank you so much for all your hard work and sharing!
gpstar wrote: January 18th, 2023, 10:16 am
Meanwhile more progress today. Started working on the firing stream and implementing more switches. Testing with a second speaker + a small amp that fits in the wand body. I am not sure if I will keep it or not, but it makes the wand sound like it has some real power and a kick behind it.
The speaker is in addition to the original. They are 1.5 inch.
https://www.amazon.fr/gp/aw/d/B08L8QTVT ... asin_title

Amplifier:
https://www.amazon.fr/gp/aw/d/B0991QVKK ... asin_title

I ripped out the electronics from the hasbro wand and rebuilding it using the original lighting and switches. They are going to be powered from the 5V from a arduino nano which is going to be powered by the pack. I am using a wavtrigger sound board for the audio.

Everything should fit in the wand, I did a test fitting a few days ago (sans wiring).
#4977334
This post may contain an affiliate link that helps support GBFans.com when you make a purchase at no additional cost to you.

gpstar wrote: January 19th, 2023, 12:51 am
AGiantSlor wrote: January 19th, 2023, 12:28 am Absolutely curious about this one - is the speaker in addition to the existing one or a replacement? What size is the new speaker? Did the amp and new speaker fit inside the wand, and, how are you getting audio (splicing existing speaker wires?) and power to the amp?

Thank you so much for all your hard work and sharing!

The speaker is in addition to the original. They are 1.5 inch.
https://www.amazon.fr/gp/aw/d/B08L8QTVT ... asin_title

Amplifier:
https://www.amazon.fr/gp/aw/d/B0991QVKK ... asin_title

I ripped out the electronics from the hasbro wand and rebuilding it using the original lighting and switches. They are going to be powered from the 5V from a arduino nano which is going to be powered by the pack. I am using a wavtrigger sound board for the audio.

Everything should fit in the wand, I did a test fitting a few days ago (sans wiring).
Again, thank you for the info! This is very helpful!
#4977349
More progress today, basic functions of the wand seem to be working smoothly.

-Created new sound effects to sound more like 2021 Afterlife.
-Replaced the 5 orange LED's in the bargraph with 5 yellow leds.
-New Bargraph animation during firing.
-Bargraph ramps up and down during bootup.
-Power mode adjustment has a noticeable sound change.
-All the firing safety switches working properly now.



So now the wand is close to being ready. Just a few more small things to add such as the video game firing modes (which is trivial as I will re-use my stream code, just have to change the colours and firing sounds. Oh almost forgot, need to add a overheat mode on high power only.

Then on to the pack for wand/pack communication. Then building a new hose.
kahuna900, Peeno, DevGameDev liked this
#4977376
This post may contain an affiliate link that helps support GBFans.com when you make a purchase at no additional cost to you.

So I know very little about electronics. I did, however, hook a talentcell 12v/5v battery like the one you used to the pack using a 3.7v usb connector that I soldered to a JST XH 2.54 connector. It will turn the pack on, but if I increase the volume, it crackles like its not getting enough power. If I turn on the wand, it will shut down when I hit the activate switch. I'm curious is the 3.7v usb connector is not getting enough power to the pack. I used a multimeter on the 2.54 connector and it says 7.8 volts (on a 9v battery setting).

PLEASE HELP! I'M NOT SMART!

This is the usb connector I am referencing. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07L2PF2T4?ps ... ct_details
#4977389
This post may contain an affiliate link that helps support GBFans.com when you make a purchase at no additional cost to you.

Squish78 wrote: January 19th, 2023, 5:58 pm So I know very little about electronics. I did, however, hook a talentcell 12v/5v battery like the one you used to the pack using a 3.7v usb connector that I soldered to a JST XH 2.54 connector. It will turn the pack on, but if I increase the volume, it crackles like its not getting enough power. If I turn on the wand, it will shut down when I hit the activate switch. I'm curious is the 3.7v usb connector is not getting enough power to the pack. I used a multimeter on the 2.54 connector and it says 7.8 volts (on a 9v battery setting).

PLEASE HELP! I'M NOT SMART!

This is the usb connector I am referencing. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07L2PF2T4?ps ... ct_details
My $.02 as a novice who's read the reviews on Amazon:

That thing is not safe to have unattended inside a pack. It's full of reviews where it melted, exploded, or caught fire.

The XH2.54 to JST adapter is probably safe. It's the USB to XG2.54 that's dangerous. Apparently you want something with short protection?
gpstar liked this
#4977393
I'd think you'd want a 6V cable? Really, I didn't think USB would output over 5V (and that cable says 3.7V) but I'd think 7.2V is too much on the 2 pin connector.

The microcontroller is setup to take 6V from 4 D batteries (and then down convert that to under 5V that it actually uses).

I don't think you should be sending in more than 6V on that connector. It could be too much power!
gpstar liked this
#4977420
shaggysrsg wrote: January 19th, 2023, 5:11 pm So I have the same amplifier you do and I soldered two headers onto the spk-0 out. the second I plug the amplifier in the stock Speaker gets staticky and so does the amplified speakers. I am using the same Talentcell you are
What speakers are you using? Is your amplifier gain set too high? On mine I only need 1/4 on the amp volume or it is too crazy loud and with static.
#4977435
My nanos arrived. This weekend I will be soldering them up and working out ways to fit everything into the wand. The wand should be ready to go by Monday. Then I will branch off my cyclotron light mod code for the pack and add the powercell control, then communication between the wand and pack for more things plus another sound board. I hope to have the pack done sometime during the middle of next week. Then build a new hose to run from the pack and wand.

Then I will post up the full instructions and files.
Image
gamera1968, Peeno liked this
#4977441
gpstar wrote: January 20th, 2023, 5:26 am
Spectregater wrote: January 20th, 2023, 12:57 am Ok set it to public.
Which speaker are you using? Can you show a photo of your wiring setup?
I'll try to get some shots when I get home. But for now. I'm using a 6.5 pioneer to test it. But also get the same wIth a 4 in. Rockford Fosgate.
Main difference from your set up is I used an old usb cable. Cut it then used the positive and negative wires inside to hook to the board in the pack and just plugged it into the USB port on the battery.
Then for the amp. I used a barrel connector lead and just plugged it right into the port on the battery and then to the amps connectors.
#4977445
Spectregater wrote: January 20th, 2023, 9:17 am
gpstar wrote: January 20th, 2023, 5:26 am

Which speaker are you using? Can you show a photo of your wiring setup?
I'll try to get some shots when I get home. But for now. I'm using a 6.5 pioneer to test it. But also get the same wIth a 4 in. Rockford Fosgate.
Main difference from your set up is I used an old usb cable. Cut it then used the positive and negative wires inside to hook to the board in the pack and just plugged it into the USB port on the battery.
Then for the amp. I used a barrel connector lead and just plugged it right into the port on the battery and then to the amps connectors.
Do you have a multimeter to check if the pack is getting enough power from the talentcell ?
#4977450
jonogunn wrote: January 20th, 2023, 11:33 am Hey gpstar. Looking at your stay alive schematics and photo of the metro mini's it looks like the 10 and 9 pins are switched around. If this is true which one is the correct one?

Image
Image
I think you are right, but in the end it doesn’t matter because both pins 9 and 10 are programmed to do the same thing in the code.
jonogunn liked this
#4977453
gpstar wrote: January 20th, 2023, 12:30 pm
jonogunn wrote: January 20th, 2023, 11:33 am Hey gpstar. Looking at your stay alive schematics and photo of the metro mini's it looks like the 10 and 9 pins are switched around. If this is true which one is the correct one?

Image
Image
I think you are right, but in the end it doesn’t matter because both pins 9 and 10 are programmed to do the same thing in the code.
What is that 150 ohm that I see on the 1st metro mini coming off the 6 pin spot? Is that the 150 ohm of the actual sloblo led itself or is that something I have to wire in. Just starting in to this part of the mod, and don't want to screw anything up and have to get a new pack.
#4977456
The Joker Buster wrote: January 20th, 2023, 12:43 pm
gpstar wrote: January 20th, 2023, 12:30 pm

I think you are right, but in the end it doesn’t matter because both pins 9 and 10 are programmed to do the same thing in the code.
What is that 150 ohm that I see on the 1st metro mini coming off the 6 pin spot? Is that the 150 ohm of the actual sloblo led itself or is that something I have to wire in. Just starting in to this part of the mod, and don't want to screw anything up and have to get a new pack.
A 150ohm resistor. You need to wire one in between the 6pin and the slo blo led.
#4977483
gpstar wrote: January 20th, 2023, 10:12 am
Spectregater wrote: January 20th, 2023, 9:17 am

I'll try to get some shots when I get home. But for now. I'm using a 6.5 pioneer to test it. But also get the same wIth a 4 in. Rockford Fosgate.
Main difference from your set up is I used an old usb cable. Cut it then used the positive and negative wires inside to hook to the board in the pack and just plugged it into the USB port on the battery.
Then for the amp. I used a barrel connector lead and just plugged it right into the port on the battery and then to the amps connectors.
Do you have a multimeter to check if the pack is getting enough power from the talentcell ?
A little over 5v to the Pack, and just over 12v to the amp.
#4977485
Spectregater wrote: January 20th, 2023, 4:58 pm
gpstar wrote: January 20th, 2023, 10:12 am

Do you have a multimeter to check if the pack is getting enough power from the talentcell ?
A little over 5v to the Pack, and just over 12v to the amp.
Can you post up some detail photos of your wiring?

Also does the alarm sound still happen if the amp is turned off or unplugged ?
  • 1
  • 6
  • 7
  • 8
  • 9
  • 10
  • 22

My Little Pony/Ghostbusters crossover done by my d[…]

Great work identifying the RS Temperature Control […]

I read Back in Town #1. Spoilers : Hate to b[…]

I'd really like to see the new t-shirt unlocks tra[…]