[trekgod3]

After seeing Buster Props cast rubber spacer, I had the idea to reprint my spacers in TPU filament. I used ESUN TPU, which has a hardness rating of 95, so it's not super squishy like Ninjaflex, but still more flexible than PLA. Now, instead of having a rock hard spacer sandwiched between the frame and cheap plastic motherboard, the spacers have a little "give" to them and can be compressed slightly. I also installed a fantastic drop in replacement aluminum vhook made for me by a fellow Haslab group member. He posted a pic of one he made and I posted that I needed one, and he offered to make me one at a very reasonable price. And finally, I installed Noah's keep alive mod. I did have an issue with it at first. It was running fine until I connected the aux cable I hooked up to the pack's speaker. It shut down within a few seconds. I messaged Noah, and he called me and explained that the pack's board is very finicky with power draw, and that was causing the pack to turn off with his mod running. It's not a deal breaker, because the pack speaker still works and all I really cared about was keeping the pack lights on. Pics and a video of the spacer flexibility:

[AGiantSlor]

Nice work on the spacers, I always felt mine were too hard! I'm also expecting to receive Noah's mod soon (got in on the first run but hasn't shipped yet).

Are you tapping into the existing speaker wires or did you solder directly to the unused SPK0 pads?

[trekgod3]

Nice work on the spacers, I always felt mine were too hard! I'm also expecting to receive Noah's mod soon (got in on the first run but hasn't shipped yet).

Are you tapping into the existing speaker wires or did you solder directly to the unused SPK0 pads?

I tapped into the existing speaker wires. Kind of bummed that using an aux speaker kills his mod and turns the pack off. On the phone call we had, Noah strongly recommend against messing with the pack's speakers. He said he's heard multiple reports of people frying their boards. It all has to do with the voltage the haslab boards can handle

[jonogunn]

Hi trek. Can you tell me what kind of rub n buff you got? I see several types of gold to choose from

[Macky621]

How did you secure the split loom when you swapped it out from the super stiff factory loom? It looks like you used electrical tape, but did you use anything else? Also, for the wire that runs from the wand to the pack, did you add anything internal to give it just a tad more protection?

[trekgod3]

How did you secure the split loom when you swapped it out from the super stiff factory loom? It looks like you used electrical tape, but did you use anything else? Also, for the wire that runs from the wand to the pack, did you add anything internal to give it just a tad more protection?

The ends are just held on with electrical tape. The wiring inside the loom comes with a loop of extra wiring at one end, this allows some slack when the loom twists and bends. Although, I actually scrapped that hose and am now using a dummy hose with 3d printed connections and no wiring between the wand and pack. I kind of like it better this way. The pack will run on either d batteries or my talentcell, and the wand runs on it's own power supply. I've seen too many complaints of poor connections with the haslab hose, and reports of the pack shutting down when activating the wand.

[RealGhostbusterJay]

I've heard good things about the Noah mod. Wait lists are a tad long though

[trekgod3]

Hi trek. Can you tell me what kind of rub n buff you got? I see several types of gold to choose from

It's antique gold

[trekgod3]

I've heard good things about the Noah mod. Wait lists are a tad long though

Yeah, I don't remember exactly how I came across his Instagram, but I was lucky enough to get in his 1st batch and got my mod pretty quickly. Like I said above, the only downside is if you use an aux speaker for the pack, the extra power draw causes his mod to stop working. It's not a deal breaker, the pack speaker still works, it's just not that loud. As long as the pack lights stay on permanently, that's all I need. No idea why hasbro thought we needed a shut down timer built in. Hopefully someone releases an entire new plug and play replacement board that eliminates the timer and adds more features, like support for larger external speakers

[RealGhostbusterJay]

Thanks, I don't have plans on altering anything beyond a stay alive function so not worried about the speaker. I'd like something in the wand similar but I really just don't want more toggles added to the wand. I'm hoping to get in on his next one.

Hasbro seems to do that with other properties too. I have a Green Ranger Dagger and it does the same thing, it can glow green but only for 30 seconds before it turns off. Might be a legality thing for any small chance of a fire? I don't know. I don't see why that and the wand couldn't have had an ON/ OFF switch and left it that way. Good use of "complicate something that was simple"

[trekgod3]

Installed my smoke kit from Etsy. Wayne's workshop aka Costronica. It was a little larger than I thought, so I had to do a little modding to make it fit. I had to remove the cyclotron cake as well as the 2 inner components. I also had to cut out a couple sections of the inner lid and the matching area on the pack. I suspended the lights and tubing with some wire held in with hot glue and secured with zip ties.

[ismailkho]

I have a few updates to share. Firstly, I've done more than just remix the Neutrik; I've also created a new version of a loom to pack connector, using other designs available on Thingiverse as a base. In addition, I've given the cyclotron lenses a tinting treatment using 5% window tint. For this, I precisely cut 35mm circles using my Cricut. However, they turned out to be slightly smaller than needed, so I improvised by applying a bit of black paint around the edges of the lenses for a better fit. On a different note, does anyone have insights into why my YouTube videos aren't embedding properly?